Significant time and efforts are being spent to match wine with Indian food by producers and importers, oblivious of the reality that Indians are not really accustomed to drinking wine or generally alcohol with their main meals even as I believe that the campaign must carry on to get consumers to enjoy the synergy that only wine offers for a total gastronomical experience.
At a recent seminar in Santiago in which I made a presentation to the Chilean producers about the Indian market, one producer asked me if I was aware of the ‘Carmenere with Curry’ campaign being launched in UK by ProChile. Replying in the affirmative I said it would be a good match due to slightly higher acidity and spiciness in the wines made from this signature varietal from Chile when produced from the grape with correct ripeness. I also cautioned that people in UK are now accustomed to drinking wine with curry or other cuisines. But in India we are still years away culturally from drinking wine with food, as I illustrate with an example- a birthday party I attended at the residence of a very good wine connoisseur friend.
It was one of those typical Delhi parties where over fifty guests were enjoying delicious, catered snacks with a multiple choice of drinks. A Rosso di Montalcino and an Italian Sauvignon Blanc from Friuli were quite adequate for the occasion, with the traditional Champagne popping with the cake cutting ceremony for the hostess. DJ was dishing out music that matched the mood and chronological age of the guests.
By conservative estimates, the net worth of the guests present was above $2.5 billion-the idea is only to stress that they all belonged to the ultra High Networth Individual (HNI) category which is always highlighted when one talks of the potential of imported luxury wine or high end liquor market and growth in purchase of high fashion goods in India.
It would be no surprise for those who know the penchant of Indians to drink scotch and single malt that only about 10 bottles of wine (6 whites and 4 reds, the typical drinking pattern in Delhi summer) were consumed, till dinner after which we decided to leave. Here is an interesting observation: not one-repeat, not one glass of wine was consumed at dinner which had a spread of over 20 dishes- Indian and not-so-Indian.
It was not a sit-down dinner like the ones organised by wine clubs like the Delhi Wine Club where 40 members routinely consume 34-36 bottles of 5 different wines typically with a 5-course meal; different cuisines including Indian, every time. However, in a similar situation both the wines would have been adequately matched with most dishes on the table. Yet, none of the guests drinking wine earlier, felt the urge to drink wine with the main meal.
The primary reason and I make this point often, is that Indians are not accustomed to drinking wine with food. It is not in our DNA as it were, it is not in our culture to drink wine or any other beverage with food. At times, beer is the accompanying beverage when the food is chili hot; at times people do walk over to the dinner table with the glass of whisky or vodka in their hands from the pre-dinner cocktail. But the only traditional drink is water-even that is not recommended by the ayurvedic practitioners with the meals. Granted there are exceptions, like lassi (buttermilk)in summer or juices, coke etc- but no wine (I remember when I used to live in the US, the jar of cold milk used to be routinely kept on the dinner table). It might be in order to remind readers that there was practically no wine available a decade ago.
This is the true reality. When we drink wine, it is before dinner during the cocktail time. I have observed this repeatedly even at dinners at my house where pre-dinner cocktails turn out to be wine tasting, san spitting bouts where each bottle is interesting and has a different label enticing the friends drink away as there is no tomorrow. But come dinner time, and any odd bottle with left-over wine is difficult to finish.
Surely, there are exceptions-especially in restaurants where people do drink wine with food- though obviously not everyone and not always. Even Indian food is enjoyed with wines of one’s personal preference. But the wine consumption is unlikely to escalate unless the potential group of middle class which is expected to jump to 584 million by 2025 with 95 million people with higher purchasing power, according to a Mckinsey study- fitting into the mould of potential wine drinkers, actually start enjoying wine with food.
Events like wine club dinners help promote this concept. It is not out of place to plug for the wine lover to come together and form more such groups- we need this number to be in hundreds and drink wine with food. Wine-by-the-glass concept is finally catching on in restaurant, though it has not taken off yet at desirable levels. The importers and restaurants need to work together for promotions where a glass of wine is complementary with the main dish. Buying one glass and getting one free is another possibility. There are many innovative options including better availability of half bottles in retail as many times people shun opening a bottle at home as it is not practical to finish it with the meal…
…so that I may hope that at my friend’s birthdays bash five years hence, I would see the clinking of a few wine glasses at dinner time too.
Subhash Arora
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