Stuart and Andrew Watson of Woodlands

I was impressed with the wines of this boutique winery with cult status from Margaret River, Western Australia even before the first sip. Talking to the younger sibling Andrew over a glass of bubbly, I was pleased when he mentioned that it was their policy to produce wines with less than 13.5% alcohol and use oak so as it is not over the top.

I am so used to tasting Australian wines with 14.5% and higher alcohol level with oak hitting my face, that I found his words refreshing. 'The problem in Australia is that to stay afloat one must win several medals to help marketing. Unfortunately powerful wines with higher alcohol and heavier oak win competitions.'

Therefore, one is obliged to compromise  'After you start winning Golds, you look at the finesse and elegance but you suddenly find your better wines not getting the Gold medals anymore. Therefore, one has to make wines to win and then have another range for fine, elegant and subtle wines,' he said.

Watsons are in a position to take that stand today. The winery founded in 1973 by their parents David and Heather Watson more as a hobby, won its first Gold when they reluctantly entered their Cabernet Sauvignon 'Andrew' 1981 at the Perth wine show. Winning several medals in other shows it went on to become the first Margaret River wine to be awarded the National Red Wine Trophy.

The winning streak has continued over the years. Cabernet Sauvignon 'Colin' 2005 just won a Gold Medal at the Japan Wine Challenge in Tokyo in July.

The little 'Classified Growth' Bordeaux

Woodlands is a mom-n-pop winery emulating the classified growth Chateaux in Bordeaux. With 10 hectares of land that has two-thirds of Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest covered with Bordeaux varietals- 12% Merlot, 8% Malbec, 2% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot you wonder if they produce only Bordeaux styles. As obeisance to Burgundy they also produce 8% Chardonnay and 2% Pinot Noir.

'Our father loves Bordeaux and wanted to emulate the style of First Growths like Latour,' says the 30 -year old Stuart sitting across the table from me. He works full time in the winery and took over as the winemaker in 2002 after the winery had started re-working after the kids grew up. Watsons had stopped producing wine in 1992-99 to look after the two boys and sold off the grape production during this period.

Like aapna Ranjit Dhuru of Chateau d'Ori who imports Bordeaux wines and buys En Primeur occasionally, Watsons buy the Futures of top five Chateaux regularly. 'Even this year we bought 6 bottles each of all first growth knowing  that this was not a great vintage,' adding sheepishly that 'the prices are down 20% but we are not worried as the quantities are too small and they are for our drinking pleasure anyway.'

Wine with the stamp of quaality

With a small production of around 8000 cases- last year they produced only 5500  due to weather conditions, selling is no problem and a majority of their wines are on allocation. Says Andrew Steele, GM of Shangri-la, who has known Stuart for 8 years, 'I had to coax these guys to come to India because I know their quality is exceptional. Margaret River is known for the quality production any way.' Said Andrew while introducing them to the select gathering of 20 guests, 'Margaret River produces only 3% of Aussie wines in quantity but 27% of quality wines come from this region.'

One reason why the quality of Woodlands wines is exceptional could be their winemaking philosophy as Stuart explained, 'we produce wines we like to drink ourselves.' Many producers in the New World including the US produce wines that are really over the top. They do not even drink the wines they produce. They have started to introspect whether they should make such wine only for others.

Another factor besides keeping the alcohol level under check is that they are very particular about the acidity as the backbone in all their wines which not only gives a longer ageing potential to their wines but also a continued freshness. Even their regular Chardonnay, of which they made only 1000 cases in 2007, is styled to age for 5-6 years more.

The passion of Watsons for Bordeaux goes beyond the capability boundaries of their idol region. Malbec is the grape from the region which is practically extinct there, but for growing small blending volumes. Argentina may have taken over the varietal as the signature grape, but the small quantity Woodlands produces in small barrels- last year they produced only one, is outstanding. Said Steele, 'it's a wine to die for. I have to beg them to sell me six bottles every year.'

Tasting Wines of Woodlands

I could have finished the full bottle even without food and begged for more. It was an easy pairing with the braised lamb shank in the main course. But I loved it even with the Spinach Polenta, the spinach providing a counter-balance to the soft tannins.

Earlier the Chablis styled Chardonnay (with a touch of oak, that is so prevalent in Chablis now due to the changing tastes) was a perfect match for the Tuna and Scallops Tartar. It was very crisp and fresh with an impressive after-taste. Scoring a 4/5 for me, it would have been a perfect aperitif wine.

On the other hand the Chloe Reserve Chardonnay was still dominant with oaky aromas and needs some more time in the bottle. I won't drink it as an aperitif because of the slightly closed and oaky notes but the rich, medium to full bodied food wine was a perfect match for the sea-bass, the slightly tropical fruit flavours adding synergy with the food for me.

Fly Qantas First Class

I'd have to fly Qantas First Class to get my fill of Cabernet but a business class would be fine to enjoy the earlier served red, the Reserve Cabernet Merlot 'Margaret' 2006. The left bank blend which spends 18 months in 50% old oak barrels was full of fruit and oak which I suspect will be tamed in a few years- it still has a decade of active life ahead. I loved the acidity in the backbone making it a vibrant wine. Due to the heavy oak, I found myself holding my hand back and gave it only 4.5/5. Perhaps two years down the line when it is really ready to drink, it might rank a perfect 5.

But, I may not have to risk flying Qantas after all (two scares in the sky in the last one week!). Andrew Steele is trying his best to get these wines into India through an importer. I am sure with the quantities available being so small, Shangri-la would monopolise the labels.

Perhaps he will then invite me for a twice- monthly wine club evening organised by the hotel where he would repeat these wines and we would re-live the special moments of this evening.

Subhash Arora

August 2, 2008

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