We do not normally recommend avoiding a specific label, but the St. Emilion from B & G stable has been consistently so poor over the years, that I find no hesitation in advising avoiding this label, from one of my most favourite French regions.

I was at a friend's house yesterday for a party enjoying a deliciously chilled white wine with excellent and succulent snacks. I decided to switch to red towards the later part of the evening. I just could not finish the first sip. At best, the wine was in a state of purgatory and at worst it was off, because of poor storage.

This was not the first or the fifth time either. But I do hope it was the last time I would have to go through this wine label. I believe life is too short to suffer such liquids.

It brought bitter memories of a few years ago when I had gone to a wedding reception where Johnny was dressed in Greed and Yellow, Black and Blue. When I asked an early arrival what class my favourite beverage was in, I was told with a smile,' They are serving St. Emilion, you know!'

St. Emilion is a much revered 'brand' this side of the Mediterranean. Perhaps because it's a Merlot-heavy wine or maybe because of the reputation of Premier Grand cru Classé Cheval Blanc (I doubt that, though!), St Emilion has been considered divine for years in India.

It is really a saint-ly wine more popular than a Pauillac, Graves or possibly Margaux housing the five First Growths of Bordeaux. (though a few kms away from these prime regions in the left bank of Bordeaux, this right bank village was not considered for inclusion in the 1855 Classification)

I must admit I started salivating like I would for a Grand Cru Chablis. First sip and disappointment came over me. Before I could decide whether my palate was on leave that night, a friend came to me,' please taste this wine. It tastes 'funny'. But St. Emilion cannot taste this bad!' Pretty soon, I was surrounded by like palated people who switched off and switched to alternatives and I was left to face cans of diet coke.

The host must have saved a lot that evening- at least on wine! And what helped him - save some money was - St. Emilion from the B & G stable- pun intended.

In all fairness, the problem may not have been in both the bottles when they left the Gaullic shores, even though they might have been at the bottom of the quality barrel. Sold through the bootlegger channel, it is hardly ever stored properly. Being twice as expensive as the regular B & G, the velocity of the case movement might be slow too.

But the same experience has always awaited me. Therefore, vintage notwithstanding, I have stopped reading anymore the label indicating the vintage.

Fortunately, I did not have to drink cans of diet coke last night. The properly chilled (around 10-12 °) Macon Village from Albert Bichot (Maconnaise Chardonnay from Southern and less expensive region of Burgundy) kept me cool. I even enjoyed it with the Biryani-heavy Indian cuisine

And I kept on thinking about what a friend had told me years ago about the banquet and party favourite, B & G- Bootlegged and Ghatia.

Rating

Subhash Arora
(With apologies to the producers who may believe they are Big & Great)

March 6, 2008